Tula, Hidalgo, Archaeological Zone

Tula, Hidalgo, Archaeological Zone (www.inah.gob.mx) is 48 miles north of Mexico City. Tula is the Spanish version of the Nahuatl word Tollan, ‘Place of the Rushes (Tules)’. 

In a number of historical accounts Tula is regarded as the most important city in pre-Columbian Mexico. It was the home of the Toltecs, whose name is synonymous with creativity and artistic capacity. It was also the city of the ‘Plumbed Serpent’, Quetzalcoatl, where the arts and crafts flourished.

History of the site; the rise of Tula as a great urban center started in the wake of Teotihuacan decline. Tula achieved its highest development was between 900 and 1200 AD during the Post Classic Period. The first in habitants settled at spot known as Tula Chico around 800 AD when a lot of different ethnic groups were settling in the region. The groups that settled in Tula set-up multi-ethnical class groups class society with a wide variety of customs, lore and religious ideas. One of which was the Nonoalcas from present day state of Tabasco and they constituted an elite group of advisers and standard-bearers’ of Quetzalcoatl worship. Another group was the Chichimecas from Northern Mexico.

Shortly afterwards strife among the various sectors of the populace led to disruption and invasion by yet another ethnic group called Chichimecas (Mexicas or Aztecs). These events coincide with the downfall of the ceremonial center and its abandonment, but some dwellers lingered on in some parts of the city. Later, Tula became a mythical, holy place for the Aztecs.

Coatepantli ‘Serpent Wall’ its name was derived from the resemblance of the serpent sculptured walls around many Aztec buildings. It is thought to be dedicated to Tiahuizcalpantecuhtli, one of the appellations of Quetzalcoatl as ‘Morning Star’, since atop it are merlons representing cross sectioned sea shells which symbolize Venus. It has three rows of friezes, the middle one show snakes devouring flesh-thorn individuals who apparently represent the souls of warriors.

 

Temple of Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli is a pyramidal structure made up of bodies in echelon and originally covered with carved stones. Those carvings have motifs of eagles and buzzards eating the bleeding hearts. These motifs also have depictions of a human face emerging from the mouth of a snake. The snake is Quetzalcoatl in his designation of ‘Lord of Dawn’ or Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli. There are also a panel of a procession of jaguars and coyotes.

Atop the temple are Toltec warriors in battle gear, including atlatl (spear throwers) in the right hands and bunches of arrows in the left; butterfly-shaped breast plates; over-skirts, each with a large belt knotted in the front and a sun disk at the rear. In addition to these sculptures, several other pillars were also found with these warriors that show a person with a bundle of arrows identified as Quetzalcoatl and a figure of a cipactli (alligator). It is thought that the temple was constructed in honor of the chief Toltec deity; Quetzalcoatl.

Place of the Columns; there was traces of a fire found here was it was nicknamed Burnt Place. It seemed it was better suited for a place for public administration or as a market, than as living quarters. It is spacious and has three main halls each with its own entrance and an inter patio, ringed with columns for supporting a roof. Inside were found the remains of seats that were adorned with polychromatic flagstone tablets on which can be seen warriors with spears and shields. It is thought that these were meant for priests and lords also there are still traces of several altars and tlecuiles used for making fire. In the hallway there are rows of snakes, some of them feathered others representing because of the cloud symbol they have, Mixcoatl, the ‘Cloud Serpent’.

Mound C; although it is almost completely in ruin, there still are remains of slabs of flagstone that show the symbol for Venus or Quetzalcoatl as the ‘Morning Star’. At the NW corner there is the remainder of an Aztec shrine.

Tzompantli ‘Place of Skulls’ is thought to have been built by the Aztecs and do to the finding of cranium bones; it is assumed that its function was to hold human heads.

A lot of this information was gathered at the site and more information can be gotten by going onto their website (www.inah.gob.mx).

Teotihuacán Pyramids

Teotihuacán (place where men become gods) is just outside of San Juan north northeast of Mexico City. Founded before the Christian era this colossal urban center once housed up to 125,000 people and covered 20 sq. km (8 sq. miles). It dominated life in the region for 500 yrs. before being destroyed (it is assumed possibly by its own people) and abandoned around 650AD (we still do not know who built these structures). Later the site was held sacred by the Aztecs who believed it was built by giants and after climbing the stairs I can certainly understand why; they must have had some very long legs and had small feet. Some of the steeps are 15 inches tall and only 6 inches wide. 

 

The ceremonial center with temples, palaces, and pyramids, bears witness to the city’s splendor but has revealed little about its creator and inhabitants. Their origin, way of life and even demise remains a mystery to this day.

Avenue of the Dead runs the length of the present site but once stretched much farther toward the south. The reason for the name was the name was because the Aztecs believed that the buildings lining it were royal tombs.

Temple of Quetzalcoatl; Masks of the Plumed Serpent Quetzalcoatl and a god sometimes identified as rain god Tlaloc decorate this temple built around 200 AD, it was later covered by another pyramid which has now been partially removed. 

Pyramid of the Moon smaller then the Pyramid of the Sun and has a structure with four tiers. The two structures are the same height but only do to the difference in ground level and it does offer the best view of the entire site. It was so cool standing up on the middle level (we were not allowed to go any higher) and I agree it is the best view of the sight. The base is 433 feet by 500 feet and its height of 140 feet. It is thought that the top of this pyramid held a temple consisting of one room that was divided into three parts. Also it did not have platform at the base in this sense it is likely to have been an area open to the public for ceremonies in which admittance was unrestricted. This pyramid lies at the head of the Avenue of the Dead were a large alter with stairs facing in all four directions lay.

Pyramid of the Sun in sheer size is the largest pre-Hispanic building of the times (100-650 AD) and one of the most important in Mesoamerica. The reason for the name is that the sun god was worshipped at this pyramid. It is thought that the top level was a temple where religious rites associated with the deity for whom the building was dedicated were carried out. 

From 1906-1910 a large archaeological investigation was undertaken to celebrate Mexico’s 100 years of independence. It is among the largest in the world and was completed around 200 AD; it is made of adobe bricks and earth covered with gravel and stone. Chambers and a tunnel have been found under this structure but we were not allowed to go in as yet.

Jaguar Mural; a fragment of this mural was found on a wall between two staircases and depicts a large jaguar set against water motifs. This mural was discovered in 1963 during an archaeological exploration.

It is part of a group of platforms and temples that comprise an archaeological unit known as The Puma Complex. This design was found on both sides of the Avenue of the Dead. Here is a portrayal of a large wild cat probably a puma.  



Colors of red, white and green were found in the background symbolizing an aquatic atmosphere. The panel molding is decorated with green circles that represent ‘chalchihuites or precious stones.

The Great Pyramid of Egypt and the Pyramid of the Sun bases are about the same dimensions but the one in Egypt is twice as tall at 144 meters (472 feet) but it is still the third largest in the world. (My information is from the displays on site, DK Eyewitness Travel Mexico book and my AAA tour book). More information can be gotten from website www.inah.gob.mx.

 

Monarch Butterflies or Mariposa

Angangueo, Ocampo and San Luis Michoacan with elev. at 7,997 ft.

Monarch Butterfly: The most spectacular migration of the world

Mariposas or butterflies are present in two separate sanctuaries one 9 km NW of Angangueo is the ”Sierra Chincua” Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary for 35 pesos the other is 12 km east of Ocampo is the “El Rosario” Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary for 40 pesos. The use of a guide is mandatory at both sites and well worth the 40, or 50 pesos recommend paying them. Both roads are extremely steep. I drove them in 1st and 2^nd gear in my Toyota 4Runner. The only time I got into a higher gear was when I came back down the mountain. I was glad I did not try pulling my little trailer. The roads are in good shape, and most cars can do it, but I recommend the use of your low gears. The walk up after parking was just as steep and seemed just as long; how anyone found where the butterflies were hiding is still a mystery to me. Both sanctuaries are beautiful and well worth the climb, but be sure to wear hiking boots, waffle stompers or something with good ankle support due to the uneven paths.  For those that are not up to the strenuous climb both sanctuaries have horses that can be rented for about 100 pesos. To appreciate the effort I made to get to the butterflies and take these photographs, please enjoy the results of my work.    

 

These two sanctuaries are in a canyon carved by the Rio Puereo, and inhabited by the Tarascan Indians long before the Spanish arrived. The name means the “mouth of the cave.” There are three mountains here with peaks rising above 10,000 feet, the Cerro de Guadalupe, El Campanario and Cerro de la Gotera. 

The butterflies stay here for about six months and will return to the United States and Canada in April or when spring arrives. They travel over 4000 km each way to avoid the impending North winters. 

Angangueo in the early 20^th century it was a mining center, today it has two imposing Catholic churches facing each other across the main plaza that also serve as a tourist departure point for trips to the monarch butterfly sanctuaries; there are more than a dozen mostly in the state of Michoacán.

Ocampo and San Luis in-between these two towns is a campground that is extremely rustic, heavily treed, good shade, beautifully, protected from the winds and out of sight from the road and only 20 pesos per day. The best deal in town for those that do not mind a little roughen it. I recommend this place for any tenters and small RVers. The access roads are narrow and rough so it would not be good for the longer RV’s or trailers. I spent a week here and enjoyed it. Sights do not have water or electricity, but it is available on the grounds.